CHECKLIST
FOR INSTALLING DEHUMIDIFICATION IN YOUR POOL ROOM:
1. ALL DIFFUSERS SHOULD BE DEFLECTED AT ALL GLASS SURFACES WITHIN THE
STRUCTURE. DIFFUSERS SHOULD NOT BE INSTALLED BETWEEN WINDOWS IN WALLS
BLOWING ACROSS AN OPEN POOL. This increases evaporation rate of water.
If you are moving air across pool water to help deal with a chlorine
issue – this will not solve the problem. Pool balancing needs to
be addressed.
2. ONE HIGH RETURN AIR (AT THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE ROOM) is generally
required. THIS IS NOT LOCATED AT THE FLOOR OR DECK LEVEL. Stratification
occurs at the ceiling level, not the floor.
3. MECHANICAL SPACE REQUIREMENTS HAVE BEEN DESIGNED FOR THE POOL ROOM.
THIS CANNOT BE INSTALLED IN A CLOSET OR SMALL STORAGE ROOM. LEAVE THE
RIGHT AMOUNT OF SPACE FOR THE JOB TO BE DONE CORRECTLY. If using our
4-12 ton units, 12 x 6 feet of mechanical space will be required. Call
for all others. Establish the proper mechanical room for your system.
4. FLOOR DRAIN/CONDENSATE DRAIN is required in the mechanical space.
IF THIS IS A SECOND FLOOR SPACE – A SECONDARY DRAIN PAN IS REQUIRED
UNDER THE UNIT.
5. IF THIS IS A CRAWL SPACE OR ATTIC SPACE, PROPER DOORWAY CLEARANCES
MUST BE DESIGNED IN TO ACCOMMODATE INSTALLATION AND SERVICEABILITY, and
allow for easy access. 36” CLEARANCE IS REQUIRED FROM THE ACCESS
PANELS. SECONDLY, THESE AREAS MUST BE CONDITIONED AND INSULATED PROPERLY.
A VAPOR BARRIER BETWEEN THIS AREA AND THE POOL ROOM MUST BE INSTALLED.
6. VAPOR BARRIER INSTALLED IN WALLS AND CEILING on the warm side of the
poolroom, AND/or a high quality vapor barrier paint.
7. NO TOP HAT RECESSED CAN LIGHTING SHOULD BE INSTALLED after your vapor
barrier is installed – or you punch holes in this barrier which
defeats its purpose, and moisture may migrate up into and pass the cans
into the structure
8. NEGATIVE PRESSURE is required for all poolrooms. This can be accomplished
in two ways. Call EPS for this information.
9. CHOOSE THE LEAST EXPENSIVE UTILITY RATE TO OPERATE, GAS, ELECTRIC,
PROPANE, ETC. FOR HEATING THE ROOM, AND FOR COOLING. IF YOU HAVE WELL
WATER YOU MAY NOT NEED AN OUTDOOR CONDENSER PACKAGE. IF YOU ARE USING
CITY/MUNICIPAL WATER, THEN AN OUTDOOR CONDENSER IS REQUIRED IF YOU WANT
COOLING.
10. Understand the why and where to keep your pool and air temperatures,
along with your humidistat settings. Temperature settings are important
to operation, reducing condensation, and costs of operation.
11. Balance and maintain the proper pH of the pool water, or subsequent
chlorine/chloramines will cause corrosion to anything metal within a
pool environment, as well as become an unstable and unhealthy environment
for patrons. Installing returns at the deck level to deal with chloramines
does not resolve the problem. Dehumidification does not cause chloramines;
this is a pool balancing issue. Introducing more outside air does not
solve the problem completely. Chloramines are a substance that adheres
to other objects, and blowing air at these surfaces does not remove the
chloramines.
12. A pool cover is highly recommended for all residential projects and
therapy/rehab facilities. Even some hotels are beginning to use covers
when they close the pool for the evening. This will reduce evaporation
rate of water, hence, dehumidification does not run 24 hours/day and
your operating costs are reduced by 50-75%.
EPS is the home of DRY-AIR & VERI-DRY. We provide Design, Engineering, Consulting and Manufacturing for Residential and Commercial Indoor Swimming Pool Applications.
