- Home
- | Products
- | Services
- | Design Guidelines
- | Request A Quote
- | Find A Rep
- | Clients
- | Warranty
- | Contact Us
- | About EPS
The Design Guidelines & Preventive Measures provided in this document are for the owner, architect, builder and mechanical firms to review and apply as necessary to the specific project. These are a basic overview; each project will have its own unique requirements and there are many additional resources available. Please feel free to contact Environmental Pool Systems to discuss these guidelines or your individual project. This can be used as a checklist to get you started. If this is a RETROFIT or EXISTING FACILITY, use the RETROFIT questionnaire provided.
WE RECOMMEND POOL ROOM ENVIRONMENTS be DESIGNED AND MAINTAINED AS A SEPARATE ENVIRONMENT FROM THE REST of the BUILDING or Home, INCLUDING THE DEHUMIDIFICATION SYSTEM. Most codes do not permit the mixing of these environments with areas not related to pool rooms and doing so can create moisture problems and damage areas not related to the pool room environment.
WASTE VENTILATION AND EXHAUST FANS CANNOT REPLACE DEHUMIDIFICATION SYSTEMS OR DUCTWORK IN A POOL ROOM; MAINTAIN THE RELATIVE HUMIDITY NOR CONTROL THIS ENVIRONMENT PROPERLY.
Note: As energy costs are rising and the costs of gas/propane/oil continue to increase, consider a DRY-AIR GEOTHERMAL SYSTEM using well water (open loop) or DRY AIR GEO Closed Loop. These systems are extremely efficient and can save 40-60% of operating costs over natural gas/propane, etc. Many states have a variety of incentives to use geothermal; lower rates, financing, etc. Visit www.geoexchange.org for more information on your state’s incentives or call your local utility company.
Indoor poolrooms are treated much the same way you treat your home. They require 365 days of conditioning to prevent damage from condensation and moisture, and maintain the structure properly. This requires heating the room, perhaps cooling the room, and in this case dehumidifying the room. With these processes comes excess heat and this free heat resource is reclaimed back into the pool or the room as necessary to help keep pool and room up to temperature and to save energy costs. Hence, today all systems are called ‘PACKAGED HEAT RECOVERY DEHUMIDIFIIERS’.
Mixing environments (i.e. offices and pool rooms, living area and pool rooms) can cause moisture and chemical damage to those areas that are not protected by specific building materials used within the pool room. Other areas of homes or buildings (i.e. exercise rooms, kitchens, libraries, etc.) are not built to withstand chlorine or moisture migration into those areas. Most codes do not permit mixing these two environments. Pool rooms & natatoriums are also maintained under a slight negative pressure to prevent vapor pressure into walls and ceilings and moisture migration into other areas not related the pool.
New construction: In designing the appropriate DRY-AIR dehumidification system for indoor pools, EPS begins with the structure first. Construction type, type of insulation, vapor barriers, how much glass is utilized, skylights, lighting, temperature settings, outside air requirements, pool covers, how the pool room will be used and various other factors will be very important to the overall operations and integrity of your pool room.
Existing facilities: EPS will review all pertinent information pertaining to structure, temperatures, how it is to be operated, etc. what equipment is currently being used, what ductwork may be in place, and design a system accordingly along with recommendations for upgrading or repairing the existing building or system.
[ ] Building Materials: (COLD CLIMATE AREAS) If you have a free standing steel frame building or attached building that has little or no R-Value, metal frames without thermal breaks, window areas that are metal without proper insulation or thermal breaks, concrete block without insulation, no insulation in walls and no vapor barrier, you may experience problems with condensation, dripping, rot, mold, not only on the inside of the structure, but also on the outside of the building. EPS highly recommends that the room be finished with proper insulation and vapor barriers to prevent condensation, corrosion, structural damage and reduce heat gain/heat loss. Anywhere where un-insulated materials such as steel frame can meet the cold outside air and warm inside air, these areas will condense (moisture). Standard construction generally refers to 2x4 or 2x6 construction, with a minimum of R-19 Walls, R-38 Ceiling, insulated and a finished inside surface of drywall or other chosen surface. Choosing a good insulation can reduce your energy costs by 30-40% each year.
[ ] Concrete Block Construction: Rock/concrete (without insulation) has a very low insulation (R-Value). Because of its lower R-Value (insulation value), when cold outside air meets warm inside pool room air, you may experience condensation on the block wall in some areas both inside and outside. We have experienced ICE build up on the OUTSIDE of block walls of pool rooms where there is no insulation. Concrete block without insulation factors, can crumble over time with humidity, and can show signs of condensation, mold and mildew INSIDE and OUTSIDE the building.
[ ] STEEL FRAMED, DOMED OR SOLID STEEL TYPE STRUCTURES: With these types of structures airflow will be critical to preventing condensation, and you still may experience condensation in areas that are not insulated. We highly recommend that all structures be insulated with recommended minimum R-Values to prevent surface areas from reaching Dew Point Temperature.
[ ] Fabric style structures: are not considered standard construction. Ensure that ductwork can be installed either underground or overhead (if the structure can support overhead ducting). Verify the R or U Value (insulation value) of the structure.
[ ] A MANUFACTURED ENCLOSURE IS NOT CONSIDERED STANDARD CONSTRUCTION MANUFACTURED ENCLOSURES/FRAME-GLASS, METAL FRAMES, ETC. Many structure companies cannot provide realistic operating costs for these types of enclosures and clients have been told these structures are built to live with the moisture; that dehumidification is not required. Clients should be aware that manufactured enclosures have very little R-Value or insulation value, which protects from cold air infiltration in winter, to the hot sun and solar gain during warmer months. Window recommendations are double pane – Single pane “glass” should not be considered and the highest U or R Value the structure company builds should be utilized to help reduce energy costs. CALCULATIONS FOR HEAT GAIN/HEAT LOSS IN BTU’S (SENSIBLE AND LATENT CALCULATIONS) MUST BE PROVIDED ACCURATELY TO DETERMINE THE PROPER SIZING FOR DEHUMIDIFICATION, HEATING AND COOLING OF THIS STRUCTURE.
METAL/ALUMINUM FRAME STRUCTURES AND WINDOWS: All frames MUST be THERMALLY BROKEN in manufactured enclosures.
Opening retractable roofs and windows cannot control humidity effectively. On nice days, it is highly recommended to shut off the system and let the room breathe. In cold climates, the combination of high humidity, low R-Value, and the use of glass require careful design and engineering to avoid condensation problems. AIRFLOW ACROSS ALL OF THE “GLASS” SURFACES IS CRITICAL TO THIS STRUCTURE.
Also note: ensure that ductwork or ceiling fans can be suspended from the framework in the event both are necessary to condition this room.
Opening these retractable panels and bringing in outside air does not control humidity 100%. Keep in mind that when opening these on a day when outdoor temperature is 80 degrees with 80% humidity, you will actually be bringing in more humidity than the 50-60% RH you want to maintain. Upon closing these for the day, dehumidification may run to bring the RH back to the recommended levels. Having these open on a “colder” day may result in the increased need to heat the room. On nice days, open all windows and door walls and let the pool room breathe.
Heating and cooling costs are generally higher for these types of structures. Shop structures carefully, because some structures may not be suitable for indoor pool rooms where high humidity and chlorine exist. Chlorine can pit materials and cause corrosion. Ensure that any materials used for your enclosure are corrosion proof. Get guarantees in writing from the manufacturer. Single pane glass and metal frames that are not thermally broken may be a concern in cold and warm weather and are not recommended. If ductwork cannot be installed to provide airflow to the top of the structure, can ceiling fans blowing up be installed in the structure you choose? Ensure that ductwork can be suspended from the metal framework, so that warm air can be moved across all glass surfaces to prevent condensation.
THE INTERNATIONAL ENERGY CODE is affecting many structure companies today. Energy conservation practices are being put into place daily. Those companies that build these types of structures can no longer claim that cooling will be needed, required or used as the International Code expects people to open all the retractable panels to save energy). In many cases, customers do not want cooling. HOWEVER, as dehumidification systems are electric, they give off quite a bit of heat. We transfer that heat resource back to pool and room. In some cases, we need to get rid of heat once the pool and room are satisfied or you would be overheating one or the other. In this case, an outdoor condensing package or fluid cooler would still be required to REJECT THE EXCESS HEAT to the outside of the structure. Ask your structure company if they are following the International Energy Codes, and this may vary from state to state.
[ ] CHLORINE/CHLORAMINES, pH -CHEMISTY, AND POOL BALANCING – A VERY IMPORTANT ASPECT OF MAINTAINING THIS ENVIRONMENT AND INDOOR AIR QUALITY.
If proper chemistry balance is not maintained, this enclosure becomes a highly corrosive environment. YOU SHOULD NOT BE ABLE TO SMELL CHLORINE IN A POOL ROOM. If you do, the pool is out of balance. Uncontrolled pool room moisture laden with chlorine or bromine disinfectants quickly adheres to surfaces and attacks everything it comes into contact with. It can form rust on and deteriorate metal or steel, (lighting, hinges, ductwork), as well as pit and destroy electrical wiring, thermostats, evaporator and other coils, contactors, refrigerant valves and other equipment in the poolroom. DEHUMIDIFICATION AND BLOWING AIR ACROSS A POOL or using a Return Air at the deck level CANNOT CONTROL CHLORAMINE ISSUES. Dehumidification does NOT cause chloramines, nor can it be expected to resolve the problem. Air flow across an open pool increases the evaporation rate of the pool water and does not necessarily control the chlorine problem.
[ ] COLD AIR INFILTRATION AND INSULATION: All potential air leaks foamed and/or sealed. Recommend blown-on wet cellulose type insulation, or any insulation that is “air-tight”. In colder geographic areas good R-Factors and good U-Factors (windows) are recommended. If attic space is to be used for equipment, this area MUST BE CONDITIONED (heated).
[ ] DOORS: All doors to the swimming pool area should be tight sealing, automatic closing, and installed with weather stripping. Openings from the poolroom to other areas should be minimized and negative pressure must be installed within the pool room envelope to prevent moisture migration.
[ ] DROP CEILINGS: These are generally problematic and are discouraged in pool rooms. If used, the air above them must be ventilated with conditioned pool room air to avoid the confined trapped humid air in this area. Despite such ventilation, the ceiling and lights, insulation, supports, etc. are still subject to hidden, trapped condensation. For this reason, EPS does not recommend drop ceilings in a pool environment.
[ ] HEATING THE ROOM WITH POOL WATER: This should never be considered an acceptable practice in any residential or commercial project. This causes increased humidity levels and condensation problems. Pool water temperatures should be maintained at ASHRAE recommended temperatures and a practical heating alternative such as an inline gas duct furnace, electric duct heater, hot water coil, boiler, etc. should be utilized to maintain appropriate air temperatures within the structure.
[ ] LIGHTING: SURFACE MOUNT ALL LIGHTING. Top Hats, Recessed can in can lighting are not recommended and are discouraged in pool enclosures. Moisture can migrate into the structure when using recessed can lighting. Also note: anything not surface mounted punches holes in your vapor barrier; now allowing moisture to migrate into your structure.
[ ] NEGATIVE PRESSURE IS REQUIRED: This can be accomplished by using a small variable speed exhaust fan sized by EPS. CFM is determined by the size of the room. The installation of this fan ensures that when the doors from the home or commercial building open to the poolroom, the pool room environment does not migrate into the house or commercial building, and prevents moisture from pressurizing into walls and ceiling. (Note: Negative Pressure can also be established by utilizing the outdoor air method.)
[ ] NON-CORROSIVE MATERIALS are recommended for use in poolrooms. Condensation and corrosion from the atmosphere can cause damage and even failure of materials and equipment within or serving a swimming pool enclosure. Ferrous materials should be eliminated from all areas of pool construction.
[ ] POOL COVERS: Are highly recommended in any project when feasible to do so to save energy costs. Pool covers:
[ ] POOL WATER HEATING: There are two methods to heating a pool using dehumidification systems:
[ ] RADIANT FLOOR HEATING: Many clients want to use Radiant Floor Heating to heat the pool rooms. Radiant Floor heating cannot & generally will NOT heat the poolroom 100%. Radiant Floor Heating HEATS OBJECTS NOT AIR. You cannot take the heat from Radiant Floor Design and move it across all glass or other surfaces prone to condensation. In northern climates, radiant floor will not cover the heat loss of the structure because of the amount of floor surface area. Another form of heating the room is recommended that will maintain the two-degree differential required and move air flow across the glass surfaces to keep them from reaching Dew Point Temperature.
RECOMMENDATION FOR WARMER DECK AREA: If you insulate 2” Rigid Styrofoam around the perimeter to the footings – your deck area around the pool will be warm. DO NOT INSULATE AROUND THE POOL SHELL. Pool heat does not travel downward; however, it does travel outward to outside walls of the pool – therefore into your deck area. Your heat loss is at your outside walls. Insulating here will stop heat loss and help keep the deck area warm, along with maintaining the proper air temperature in the room.
[ ] Relative Humidity to be maintained: Called (RH) Recommended 50-60% RH depending upon the season. Relative Humidity should NOT be maintained below the recommended levels (never lower than 50% - never higher than 60%). Humidity higher than the recommended 50-60%RH encourages corrosion, deterioration of the building, and condensation problems, as well as occupant discomfort. NEVER turn the Humidistat lower than 50% or dehumidification will run continually and may NOT BE ABLE TO KEEP UP. IF YOU DO NOT MAINTAIN YOUR POOL AND ROOM AND THE PROPER TEMPERATURES, YOU CANNOT CONTROL THE HUMIDITY. i.e. – Room 70 Degrees, pool 86-90 Degrees. These are outside of the guidelines recommended for any pool unless it is a hospital rehab pool.
[ ] R-FACTORS for insulation: Minimum R-19 Walls, R-30 Ceiling-- Recommended: R-19 Walls and R-38 Ceiling or better. Where R-Factors or U-Values are minimal or you are dealing with a manufactured enclosure, SENSIBLE CALCULATIONS MUST BE DONE to finalize the sizing of equipment. A high R-Value of insulation ensures lower costs in heating and cooling throughout the year and prevents warm air from meeting cold air (where it can reach Dew Point Temperature and condense). In cold climates we recommend blown in, blown on, air tight insulation to effectively reduce your energy costs and prevent cold air infiltration.
[ ] SKYLIGHTS: Many customers are being told that skylights should not be installed in a pool room because of problems. However, that does not “ring true” if you were to look at a glass & frame enclosure!!! EPS recommends thermal pane type skylights. Airflow across all skylights MUST BE ADDRESSED IN THE DESIGN STAGE of your project. If skylights are deeply recessed (boxed in), it is difficult to move airflow across them to keep them from reaching Dew Point Temperature and condensing. Recessed skylights can be addressed with ductwork or ceiling fans blowing up. If ceiling fans are not feasible, you must discuss other alternatives with the mechanical contracting firm to move air into and across skylights. They cannot be ignored or they will drip, rot and mold, and may cause problems at a later date.
[ ] TEMPERATURES WITHIN THE POOL ENVIRONMENT: MAINTAIN POOL AND AIR TEMPERATURES AT ALL TIMES according to ASHRAE STANDARDS. This is extremely important and more critical when you are not using a pool cover in your project. A variety of projects have different temperature settings. Rehab can be from 85-100, Olympic swimming from 78 to 80 degrees, Dog ‘resorts’ at 84-86 water temperatures; residential projects range from 80-84 degree water temperature and 82-86 degrees air temperature. Commercial and medical projects will vary, depending upon use/treatment. If temperatures are not going to be maintained within ASHRAE GUIDELINES, all parties involved must be made aware of this as equipment may be sized differently to accommodate your specific temperatures, and structure guidelines may change.
Anytime air temperature falls BELOW pool water temperature, you have significantly increased the evaporation rate of the pool water. THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDED! At this point, you are literally pulling the water out of the pool (in the form of increased evaporation). It is important to maintain your air temperature 2 degrees warmer than the pool when you are not using a cover.
[ ] TEMPERATURES IN THERAPY/REHAB FACILITIES: In therapy & rehab facilities, or any pool being used for rehab, therapeutic, or teaching small children to swim, water temperatures are generally set somewhere between 85 & 100 Degrees. Air temperatures are generally maintained at about 80-84 Degrees w/50-60% Relative Humidity settings. We highly recommend a pool cover be used on all rehab pools when the pool is not in use, or is closed after the workday. Equipment will be sized to handle these temperatures, but additional measures may need to be taken to protect the room (i.e. vapor barriers, vapor barrier paint). Contact EPS directly for assistance with these projects.
[ ] WINDOWS: Thermal pane type. Keep in mind that windows have little insulation value. As such, we recommend double pane, Low E glass. Airflow must be directed at all glass surfaces (via properly sized ductwork and/or ceiling fans blowing up) -- AT ALL TIMES to prevent them from reaching Dew Point Temperature and FORMING CONDENSATION.
AIR FLOW AND AIR DISTRIBUTION CAN’T BE STRESSED ENOUGH AS THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECT OF A POOL ROOM! We equate Airflow in the poolroom (via ductwork) to a “good heart” – “bad arteries”. One does not work without the other. The ductwork is the most critical aspect of your installation and standards for ducting are much higher when they are applicable to pool enclosures. Many people do not understand why ductwork is necessary to a poolroom. Question: would you remove the ductwork from your home or office for heating or cooling? Why not? Simply because you would have no airflow and no way to evenly heat and cool the structure or distribute warm air to glass surfaces. The same principle applies to dehumidification and conditioning the swimming pool areas. Airflow can only be distributed through a duct system, moving air across all glass surfaces to keep them from forming condensation.
The air delivery system is critical to keeping this environment controlled properly. EPS sizes all Ductwork according to all ASHRAE/ACCA requirements. We will exceed ASHRAE Requirements for air turnovers.
NOTE: In areas with high water tables, or potential flood areas, serious consideration must be given as to whether or not underground ductwork can be utilized.
Ductwork recommendation: design as a continuous loop (peripheral ALL THE WAY AROUND THE POOL ROOM and back to mechanical space. This is a LOOP, not a supply down each wall or down the center of the room. In some natatoriums a combination of overhead and underground may be required. This will depend upon window and skylight placement, how high the ceiling is, and the kind of structure (standard construction or manufactured enclosure). The necessary CFM required in the room will be distributed to diffusers to provide a flow of warm air to all glass or other surfaces prone to condensation. Ductwork can be PCD underground, which is always pitched on a slight angle back towards the drains, Overhead soffit mounted, or overhead spiral. If Fabric duct is utilized, there are additional considerations for air flow. Stainless steel ductwork is not necessary or required; galvanized is recommended for these applications.
[ ] DIFFUSERS (or registers): Located under (in floor) or over (soffit mounted or spiral ductwork) all exterior windows. Diffusers ARE NOT INSTALLED IN WALLS BETWEEN THE WINDOWS or in ceiling blowing down on open pool. All diffusers are designed to deflect airflow across all glass surfaces to keep them from reaching Dew Point Temperature.
[ ] DUCT SIZING: EPS, Inc. will provide all engineering/duct sizing for the project, exceeding ASHRAE and ACCA requirements and guidelines. It is imperative the ductwork be done according to specifications provided for supply and return within this room. Inadequate or over-sizing of the duct system leads to problems with condensation and systems not being able to maintain design conditions.
[ ] DUCTWORK MYTH: You can’t put in underground duct because all of the splashing in the pool will fill up the ducts with water and flood them. FALSE. You would have to stand over ducts in the floor with a 5-gallon bucket and dump water in them to create this type of problem. The small amount of splashing that occurs will dry very quickly due to the warm air traveling through these ducts. Also, any great amount of water will be drained back towards the floor drains, as all ductwork should be pitched slightly back to the drains when designed and installed. If your client has a high water table, then underground ducting may need to be reviewed and may not be feasible.
[ ] OVERHEAD DUCTING: Clients have been told that overhead ducting isn’t and shouldn’t be done, because warm air rises and it can’t keep windows dry. This statement is false. With the ductwork designed properly, the velocity of the duct can move air from diffusers anywhere from 6 feet to 25 feet, depending upon the job. Overhead ducting in commercial projects that do not use pool covers can tend to blow air down and across the open pool and increase the evaporation rate as it goes across that body of water. This is common to these types of projects and is taken into consideration. Overhead & underground ducting is generally designed as a CONTINUOUS LOOP and either distribution system can be used.
[ ] FABRIC DUCTWORK:
[ ] AIR TURNOVERS: We exceed ASHRAE recommended Air Turnovers. We have found in our past experience that more air turnovers are required for better air quality and to prevent condensation; therefore EPS will exceed Air Turnovers.
[ ] BLOWING AIR ACROSS THE POOL WATER TO PREVENT CHLORINE AIR QUALITY PROBLEMS: Although ASHRAE does recommend blowing or moving air across the pool water to help deal with chlorine and chloramines, EPS does not recommend this in an indoor pool because it increases the evaporation rate of the pool, and does not solve the chloramines issues. This is a pool balancing issue, not a dehumidification issue. Diffusers should be directed at all glass surfaces first, not across the pool. Good air turnovers and air delivery system will help to some extent, but cannot be expected to control chloramines.
[ ] OUTSIDE AIR: On all projects, ASHRAE recommends .5 cfm per square foot of pool and deck area, or 15 cfm per person, whichever is greater.
How to determine which system to use? Ask EPS for the equipment comparison chart to other product lines. Email chris@dry-air.com.
[ ] DEHUMIDIFIER: High Grade (304) Stainless Steel, G-90 Galvanized or Galva-Lume Plus. Equipment should be R410A, UL or ETL Listed, CAN/CSA Certified, and Carry the Energy Star Label, and utilize the least amount of refrigerant per ton. All units should be built with 3, 4 or 5 Row Field Cleanable and coated coils as a standard. Compressors should be hermetically sealed scroll type.
[ ] EVAPORATOR COILS: 3, 4 or 5 Row Cleanable Coils. 8 Row coils are not recommended. 8 Row coils are impossible to clean as well as expensive to replace. (See Coil Articles enclosed.) We do not recommend equipment with 8 Row coils.
MECHANICAL SPACE REQUIREMENTS: WE NEED TO CAUTION CLIENTS ABOUT THEIR MECHANICAL SPACE. ALLOWING THE PROPER ROOM FOR EQUIPMENT AND INSTALLATION IS BECOMING A SERIOUS PROBLEM IN THIS INDUSTRY. THIS EQUIPMENT MUST BE LOCATED IN A MECHANICAL ROOM THAT IS CONDITIONED AND INSULATED AND INDOORS IS PREFERRED. GARAGES, ATTIC SPACES, CRAWL SPACES, CLOSETS, ETC. ARE NOT CONSIDERED THE APPROPRIATE MECHANICAL SPACE FOR EQUIPMENT UNLESS THE PROPER ROOM AND ADEQUATE CLEARANCES ARE ALLOWED.
The International Mechanical Code should be followed for all Mechanical Space Requirements.
[ ] MECHANICAL SPACE REQUIREMENTS: A great deal of consideration must be given to the proper mechanical space. The size of this room is dictated by the size of your system, whether you will be using natural gas/propane/oil to heat with or our liquid source units. Generally, you will need to leave approximately 12 feet by 6 feet for THE 5-12 TON UNITS --for the installation of the unit, the ductwork, an inline gas/propane duct furnace, serviceability, etc. Larger units require more space. The access panels from front and right hand side bottom of vertical SS units require 36” clearance for access and serviceability.
[ ] MECHANICAL ROOMS ABOVE GRADE or BELOW GRADE: (second floor, crawl spaces, attic spaces) Installations: In these cases, these areas must be insulated and conditioned; a secondary drain pan must be installed under the unit with a drain line for second floor installations. Also bear in the mind serviceability when placing equipment in areas such as attics or spaces that have a “trap door access”. Generally attic and crawl spaces are generally not recommended. If utilized, the required mechanical space or appropriate square feet will be required according to International Mechanical Code.
[ ] FLOOR DRAIN: A floor drain and condensate drain in the mechanical space is required. A condensate drain is also required. This is applicable to on grade and above grade mechanical rooms.
[ ] HEATING WITH GAS OR PROPANE: A gas line to the unit is required if using natural gas or propane to heat the room. Determine whether this should be power or gravity vented. Combustion air is required when utilizing this method of heating. If oil is the only available heat source, oil duct furnaces are generally not being manufactured any longer. Recommend using oil fired high temperature boiler (not low temp) to heat the room with a hot water coil in the supply duct, instead of a gas duct furnace. This boiler will also heat the pool and spa.
[ ] STRATIFICATION: Pool room moisture is similar to boiling pot of water on a stove. The warm air rises and stratifies along the ceiling area. To properly move air to prevent stratification, a high return air is required. Returns at the deck level do nothing to remove stratification at the ceiling level. If ceilings are high, ceiling fans blowing up are also recommended to move air within the envelope. The ceiling fans can also be utilized to move air up into skylights to prevent condensation, when it is not feasible to do so with ductwork.
[ ] WELL WATER: Well water can be used for standard applications for cooling only, or a complete geothermal application. No outdoor condenser is required for these applications. When you have well water available, it is very advantageous to utilize it for cooling and for a number of reasons.
First, our DRY-AIR line is unique since it is the ONLY energy-recycling product on the market that reclaims and rejects heat to 3 places simultaneously as required. Example, in the dehumidification mode, the reclaimed latent heat and added compressor heat is rejected first back into the space. If the space is satisfied, it is then rejected back to the pool and if the pool has reached its set point temperature, the excess heat is rejected to the drain using a very small amount of well water. Cooling with well water has lower equipment first costs; lower operating costs, and extends the compressor life considerably. Installation costs are also reduced along with a significant reduction in maintenance factors. Water usage is also efficiently metered based on what function is being performed. If for example, you are cooling with only one compressor, only enough water is metered based on temperature to efficiently cool the one compressor. Spring, winter and fall, little or no water is used since we need the reclaimed heat put back into the room.
[ ] WATER LINE if using well water for geothermal or cooling only systems: If using a well: a water line to the unit is required. Well water should NOT BE SOFTENED/CONDITIONED to the DRY-AIR Unit. If using the geothermal design, a Welmate Bladder Suspension Tank will be required.
THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO MAINTAINING THE INTEGRITY OF YOUR STRUCTURE AND PREVENTING MOISTURE MIGRATION TO THE INTERIOR OF THE STRUCTURE.
[ ] Vapor Barriers: Recommended 10-12 mil. Polyethylene sheeting (8- mil. Minimum) continuously overlapped and sealed, or Vapor Barrier Paint. Avoid penetration of the vapor barrier (i.e. lighting-NO TOP HAT RECESSED CAN LIGHTING! electrical boxes, conduit for wiring, switching – should be surface mounted if placed on surfaces incorporating the vapor barrier. If some electrical boxes penetrate, ensure they are taped up tight when finished. To prevent moisture migration, use a suitable sealant material wherever any device (i.e. nail, screw or ductwork) penetrates the vapor barrier. (See Vapor Barrier information enclosed in this package.) Vapor Barriers MUST is installed on the WARM SIDE of the poolroom in walls and ceiling, prior to putting on your finished surface.
ON VAPOR BARRIER AND PLACEMENT OF VAPOR BARRIER:
Warm, humid air inside a pool building naturally migrates to the cooler, drier air outdoors. As it does so, moisture condenses in the exterior wall cavity, causing mold, rot, and deterioration of the exterior wall materials. This effect is especially pronounced in colder climates, where the contrast between the humid indoor air and the dry exterior air is greater. Proper selection, placement, and installation of a suitable vapor barrier can minimize this unwanted moisture migration. If a vapor barrier can’t be installed, then vapor barrier or waterproof paint should be used on all surfaces that come into contact with the poolroom.
VAPOR BARRIER SELECTION
Select and specify a vapor barrier with a permeance rating of 0.1* or less (*Using ASTM-E-96-80 Procedure A). A vapor barrier inhibits moisture migration. The objective is to keep the water vapor in the space. The permeance rating (perms) measures the amount of moisture that can migrate through a particular vapor barrier. A vapor barrier with a permeance rating greater than 0.1 ... the kind typically used in standard construction ... will allow too much moisture through it and is not recommended for use in indoor pool enclosures. Green board, Brown board, blown-in insulation, sheet rock, DRI-VET, fiberglass bat with foil face, are NOT substitutions for vapor barriers.
| ACCEPTABLE VAPOR BARRIERS | PERMEANCE OF VAPOR RETARDERS | ||
| Material | Perms | Material | Perms |
| 10 mil-12 mil Polyethylene Sheeting | 0.090 | Aluminum Foil | 0.0-0.05 |
| Zero-Perm by Alumiseal Corp. | 0.00 | Polyethylene Film - 10 mil | 0.03 |
| Polyethylene Film - 8 mil | 0.04 | ||
| NOT RECOMMENDED | Polyethylene Film - 6 mil | 0.06 | |
| Foil-Faced Fiberglass Bat Insulation | 0.50 | Polyethylene Film - 4 mil | 0.08 |
| 6 Mil Polyethylene Sheeting | 0.113 | Cross-Laminated Poly Sheeting - 4 mil | 0.04 |
| Vapor Retardant Paint, 1 coat | 0.06 (ASHRAE data) | ||
| Expanded Polystyrene Board | 1.2 | ||
| Concrete (1:2:4 Mix) | 3.2 |
VAPOR BARRIER PLACEMENT IS CRITICAL!
Place the vapor barrier as close as possible to the inside finish surface of all exterior walls and ceiling. Exact placement of the vapor barrier is critical. All materials on the pool side of the vapor barrier are highly susceptible to moisture damage. Use only waterproof or highly moisture-resistant materials on the pool side of the vapor barrier.
Place the vapor barrier between the pool area (between insulation and drywall) and other areas (including ceiling) of the building. When adjacent areas without humidity control share interior walls with the pool enclosure, unwanted moisture may migrate to those areas and cause problems. Incorporate the vapor barrier into the pool side of the walls or ceilings separating those areas. Also, provide weather-tight passage doors between those areas.
VAPOR BARRIER INSTALLATION
Install a CONTINUOUS vapor barrier. Envelope the entire building interior with a continuous over-lapping vapor barrier. Seams, gaps, tears, punctures, or breaches will permit moisture migration and must be avoided. Overlap (recommend overlapping 12” walls/ceiling) the material and positively seal vapor barrier joints. Avoid penetrations of the vapor barrier. Design the building to avoid penetrations of the vapor barrier. Any puncturing of this vapor barrier now allows for moisture to migrate into those areas. For example, electrical boxes and conduit for wiring, switching, lighting fixtures should be surface mounted only if placed on surfaces that will incorporate a vapor barrier.
The effectiveness of a vapor retarder system may be greatly reduced if openings, even very small ones, exist in the barrier. Such openings may be caused by poor workmanship during application, poorly sealed joints and edges, insufficient coating thickness, improper caulking and flashing, and other factors. Air infiltration around a vapor retarder can carry considerable quantities of water vapor into the insulation, creating a condensation problem. The air finds passages through gaps in joints, tears in the barrier, or cracks where pipes or similar items penetrate the wall. Seal any necessary penetrations of the vapor barrier. To prevent moisture migration, use a suitable sealant/caulking material wherever any device (such as a nail, a screw, and ductwork) unavoidably penetrates the vapor barrier. Patching - repair all tears and punctures with oversized patches of retardant materials and tape before vapor barrier is covered.
If you are not using a vapor barrier due to construction design (i.e. concrete block), then high-grade vapor barrier paint must be used on the inside surface of walls and ceiling. General latex house paint is NOT VAPOR BARRIER paint! Concrete block and other non-insulated type construction have little R-Value and are water permeable. If you are not using a Pool Cover, it will be imperative that you use some kind of vapor barrier paint if you cannot install this barrier between the insulation and finished wall.
This information was obtained through ASHRAE Fundamentals Handbook and at IndoorPools.com, and is not expressly the opinion of E.P.S. A licensed professional should be contacted for your particular application, as there are many options available. EPS recommends a 10-12 mil continuous overlapped and sealed vapor barrier in the warm side of walls and ceiling. A vapor barrier is a must in all indoor pool enclosures. A vapor barrier is not a substitution for dehumidification. Green board, Dri-Vet, brown board, etc. ARE NOT VAPOR BARRIERS.
NOTE: THE AIR INFILTRATION RATE AROUND A STAPLED FIBERGLASS BATT IS SO SIGNIFICANT IN TERMS OF THE ACTUAL SPACE ITSELF BETWEEN THE BATT AND 2X4’S IT DOESN’T CREATE AN AIR TIGHT VAPOR BARRIER. THEREFORE, IF THERE WERE ANY MOISTURE PENETRATION IT WOULD NOT RESULT IN TRAPPED CONDENSATION BETWEEN THE BATT & VAPOR BARRIER. A PROPERLY INSTALLED PLASTIC VAPOR BARRIER 8 T0 12 MIL ON THE WARM/HUMID SIDE OF THE ROOM WILL NEGATE MOISTURE PENETRATION. A SECONDARY PRECAUTION IN ALL POOL ROOMS THAT EPS RECOMMENDS IS A NEGATIVE PRESSURE FAN. THIS FAN DOES NOT PERMIT ANY MIGRATION EVEN IF THE VAPOR BARRIER WAS COMPOMISED (I.E. TOP HAT/RECESSED CAN LIGHTING, ELECTRICAL BOX PENETRATION) AND WILL NEGATE THE POSSIBILITY OF ANY TRAPPED MOISTURE BETWEEN THE BATT AND VAPOR BARRIER.
These are the “basics”; each structure will have its own unique requirements. If there are additional questions or requirements, please Contact Us
This information is provided by EPS and is proprietary information. This information cannot be copied or reproduced by any other firm or used in any other company website.